Wednesday, September 5, 2007
Sunday, July 22, 2007
After 2 days, I'm continuing work, the TDA2009 amplifier was finished. The sound is suitable with my litle speaker. Today, I'm give them for my young brother, he very happy.
Next time, I'll make another and maybe I'll using TDA1557Q chipamp.
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
After 1 hour in market, I was bought:
- Resistors and Capacitors
The transformer taked from old VCD player.
Okie, now making the PCB...
Print layout to plain paper, cuting PCB and cleaning by water sand paper.
Prepering for iron, so today I'm very tired, tomorrow will be continuing work.
Friday, July 13, 2007
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
I've started home build audio amplifier using the TDA2009A, the power is 10W+10W and enough for me because I have small speaker.
The TDA2009A using from 8 to 24 V, and its very easy to build.
- Drawing the schematic by Cadsoft Eagle.
- Making the PCB.
- Building and testing.
- Making the box for amp.
Today I create schematic by Cadsoft Eagle. The first, Cadsoft Eagle is free for personal use, second they allow create use library, so it is first time I'm using the Cadsoft Eagle, that why I'm do it very slow.
The Cadsoft Eagle do not have TDA2009 library, so I'm being create a new library for TDA2009.
Next, draw the schematic, it is simply, but when switch to PCB to difficult to me :D
Buzzzzzzz, that all today, tomorrow will be continue...
Sunday, July 1, 2007
Thursday, June 28, 2007
First, note that the pictures in this how-to were taken while adding a memory chip; if you want to replace your main chip just follow the directions, the pictures will most likely not be accurate for that scenario so don't get discouraged; keep trying and go on ;P
Here are the tools used in this project:In this project, the target S1mp3 has 512MB of memory, a 4Gbit (Samsung) flash NAND chip.
How to get a new chip
You can get an extra memory chip from a dead donor player or from a memory chip sale.
Extracting flash chip from a donor
If you already have a memory chip it is safe to skip this section and proceed to "Preparing to solder the second chip".
A donor s1mp3 can be used to obtain a new flash memory chip. You can get a donor on internet auctions as damaged ones, for a really low price (sometimes equivalent to about 5 Euro).
Luckily it had the same flash memory chip of the target, a 4Gbit Samsung. What might happen if diffent types of flash chips are used is unknown.
Extracting the flash memory chip
Disassemble the donor and secure it to a table.
put up one side of chip and gently apply some heat to desolder it.
Another method may be to use a sharp, thin razor blade to cut the pins off. Hold the blade as closely to the board as possible, this keeps the pins long enough for soldering.
Do not overheat chip with soldering gun/iron.
Do not cut chip legs. Almost all of them are necessary :)
Then, do the same with the other side. Now you can extract the memory chip from the donor.
Here's the 4Gbit flash chip. Pins will be dirty after removal (tin + rosin).
Clean it so there are no short circuits. It is now ready to use!
Preparing to solder the second chip
Disassemble the target s1mp3 and secure it to a table, with the free soldering place face up.
The "o" symbol marks position of first pin of memory chip! This is very important! You can't turn chip around during soldering. The chip MUST be correctly aligned! Take a look at the pin 1 marker embossed on the chip.
Clean the free soldering place on the circuit board of the target S1mp3 with alcohol, if necessary.
If your board does not have the soldering points for another memory chip, you can still add a second chip following this scheme:
NOTE: This piggy-backing method will not allow you to have a player with more than two memory chips! It relies on the fact that both chip enable lines are brought out on pins 9 and 10 of the first memory chip socket/solder pads. So, solder all the pins of the second memory at the top of the first, making the addaptation on the legs 9-10.
Soldering the chip
Apply tin to solder the chip legs to the board. This is the most dangerous and difficult part as the pins are so small and close that it is very easy for solder to bridge across the pins.
- Use as little tin as possible.
- Soldering areas are just covered - it should be enough.
- Put the chip very precisely on the soldering places.
- Solder first and last pin, then check if location of chip is correct.
- If it's OK, then solder the rest of the pins - side by side.
- STOP and CHECK with multimeter and magnifying glass (or grandma's "+4" glasses), MAKE SURE that there are no short-circuits between chip legs.
Sometimes flash chip's include two chips in one case. E.g. a 1GB chip could contain 2x 512MB chips. Then the chips second enable signal (CE2) also needs to get connected. The boards usually keep this pin unconnected/floating. This causes the whole bus to break down. Either remove the old chip's CE line and connect to this pin (CE1) or directly connect to VCC and waste the memory. Another option may be to add a switch :)
Testing the chip
Now there are two flash chips on board.
At this point, when powering up, the device could either hang during "Starting..." or still work normally.
If it hangs, put it on recovery mode by TEMPORARILY bridging/shorting memory data pins during startup, as described in the Dead Recovery Guide.
Next, flash your working firmware to your S1mp3, and make a full (not low!) format operation.
If it starts up as normal, the expanded memory won't be detected at first. To make the player see the extra memory, format it with the HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool. This tool will detect the total available amount of memory and format the device accordingly.
For a final test, load your s1mp3 with different types of data(such as videos, musics, etc.), and then check the integrity of the files. If everything works fine, you can now reassemble all parts together. If something wrong happens, check for short-circuits on the soldering work you've made.
Success! Here's the 1GB s1mp3 player.
Original version made by Pawel Koch aka Loslobos
Wroclaw, Poland 2006.01.11
Skype ID = kochpaw
The circuit is very straight forward. Most of the circuitry is contained within the amplifier module. C1 & C2 are input coupling capacitors and block DC, as do C10 & C11 which are the output coupling capacitors, and C6 & C7 which block DC from the feed back loop. R1/R2 (and R3/R4) set the level of feed back. The gain is equal to 1 +(R1/R2) = 68 or 37 dB. C8/R5 (and C9/R6) provide a high frequency load for stability where loudspeaker inductive reactance may become excessive. C4 and C5 provide power supply decoupling or filtering. The absolute maximum supply voltage for this Kit is 28V. Check the power supply voltage and polarity before connecting to the board. We found no trouble in getting this kit to work. If yours does not work, first check all external wiring, make sure there are no shorts, then check all the component positions and orientation. Also check all solder joints and make sure there are no solder bridges.
D.C. Input : 8 – 24V at 1 – 2 A
Power output : > 10W RMS /channel, 4 ohm load, 24V DC supply.
> 6W RMS /channel 8 ohm load 24V DC supply.
> 4W RMS /channel, 4 ohm load 12V DC supply.
S/N ratio : > 75 dBA re. 10W output.
Frequency response : ~ 10 Hz to 50 kHz –3 dB
Gain : ~ 36 dB Input level : ~ 100 mV for full output